At last! Big Corn Island disappeared far off in the distance. No more threatening thugs, no more loud music, no more hurtling cars – just crystal clear blue water, soft sand, and the sweet sweet quiet of Little Corn Island.
That’s right – there are no roads on Little Corn Island, and no cars.
A taxi driver on Big Corn had recommended we stay at the Lobster Inn, instead of Los Dolphines, so we were delighted to meet Momma Cornelia, and negotiate a rate of $15 per night, rather than $20. http://littlecornisland.net/accomodation/
We were right on the beach just down from the dock with a few fishing boats in the water, and though the bedroom was small, everything was sparkling clean. Everyday Momma was washing and polishing.
There were great balconies with rocking chairs at the front and back of the hotel, and a nice breeze made it fantastic to relax there mornings and evenings.
The dining room was open and pleasant, with prices from $5-9. A lobster dinner was only $9!
The people on the Caribbean coast of Nicaragua are Caribbean Black while the people of the Pacific Coast of Nicaragua are primarily of Hispanic origin, so traversing from the Atlantic to the Caribbean side of Nicaragua was like going to a different country!
About 5 am, the rooster started crowing, and went on crowing for two friggin’ hours… but after a few days, we learned to roll over and go back to sleep.
Time to explore! The first day we walked down a path that took us to a tiny village where the aroma of fresh bread lead us to the wee bakery in a private home selling delicious Coco Bread (pan de coco).
Then as we walked further down the path, a local man gave us a freshly picked mango. So sweet and juicy!
We continued strolling leisurely along the path in the warm sun and came to the most stunning tropical beach you’ve ever seen.
Clear sapphire water, warm as toast, gorgeous bays, fine white sand, and nary a soul to be seen.
The beach went on and on for 2-3 kilometers… and we never saw another person…
Several times we just walked into the water with our clothes on to cool off – the clear azure water was irresistable. We didn’t care that we were wearing shorts and tank tops.
The only other people we saw all day were three friendly guys in a canoe…
In some places the jungle had grown almost up to the water, so it took some ducking and twisting to get through to yet another gorgeous virgin beach.
In one spot, we came across the wreck of a boat… T stood inside it, wide-eyed, with his hands in the air, and said,
“I don’t know what happened!”
We spent the hot afternoon on one of those beautiful beaches…
But we ran out of water, so trudged back several kilometers through the ankle-deep hot white sand.
As we came back to the docks, the fishermen were coming in for the day…
It was a long walk, and we came back exhausted, collapsing into the rocking chairs on the balcony, watching the boats come in.
After showering, dressing for dinner, and trying out the Dolphines Restaurant for supper, we heard music in the distance. Walking towards it, we came to the Pentecostal Church.
Exuberant gospel music flowed out the doors and filled the tropical night air. We stood in the doorway completely mesmerized, eventually beginning to sing and sway along with them.
The Minister beckoned and invited us in. A little embarrassed, we slipped in and we were soon immersed in the beautiful music and ambiance. Then of course, it would have been rude to leave, so we had to sit through the long sermon.
At the end of the sermon, everyone came and shook our hands, and said, “Bless you.”
Cornelia, the owner of the Lobster Inn, was there too, and she was tickled to see us there.
Back at the hotel we relaxed in the rocking chairs on the veranda that backed onto the jungle. Suddenly little lights were dancing everywhere.
“What’s that?!” we said.
Then realized there were thousands and thousands of fireflies lighting up our jungle back yard. What a beautiful way to end the first day of our week in a virgin tropical heaven – Little Corn Island.
Coming soon… More Adventures on Little Corn Island…